A peculiar piece of Baltimore charm, our city is one of the last to host arabbers (pronounced AY-rabbers), colorful horse-drawn fruit carts that can be seen rolling through Bolton Hill. Arabbers and their equine companions have been delivering fruit and produce to Baltimore neighborhoods since before the city’s founding in 1729, long before Uber Eats or Instacart or even the idea of supermarkets.
The concept may seem as quaint as Fred Flintstone’s tortoise phone, but arabbers have continuously provided a low-carbon, low-contact solution essential for food deserts, senior citizens, people without car-access and customers who appreciate the eccentricity.
There are a handful of arabbers employed in Baltimore, but Bolton Hill is served almost exclusively by one man, Tony Mack. Many neighbors are familiar with the sound of him hawking his fresh wares, the clopping of his horse and jingle of the wagon’s bells as he comes down Lafayette or Lanvale. I sat down with Tony to hear more about him and his work.
Tony Mack, 59, has been in the business since he was 15 years old. In fact, Tony has been interviewed previously by the Baltimore Banner, Slate, and the Baltimore Sun. He worked stints with the Marine Corps and Bethlehem Steel. But arabbing is the job he loves: being his own boss, walking his city, meeting people and bringing a smile.
His normal day starts before 6:30 a.m., feeding and caring for the horses at the N. Fremont Ave. stable. (Learn more about the stable here.)
He works with a wholesaler in Jessup where he buys produce fresh and in bulk, then transports it (by truck) back to the stables for distribution. Horses are bathed, wagons are loaded, and finally he starts his route. His path can be circuitous, normally starting in Pigtown, up MLK, along Charles St. in Mt. Vernon, crossing Bolton Hill, back to Charles St. up to 25th St in Charles Village where he hopefully closes his day at 4 p.m.
His route isn’t consistent, sometimes taking him south through the Inner Harbor or north to Mondawmin, but he works “every day but Sunday as long as the weather is good,” spring through autumn. His produce includes grapes, watermelon, apples, bananas, strawberries, and oranges, moving more towards cabbages, potatoes, and carrots as the year gets colder. Sometimes he’ll round out the offerings with home goods like trash bags, bleach, and cleaning supplies.
When he’s not leading a wagon through Baltimore’s streets, he’s working his second job, stewarding the city as a Baltimore sanitation worker. He lives comfortably in the city with his wife, but also has a trailer near the stables to rest and wash up. He has four children (two sons and two daughters) and boasts one grandchild.
For most Bolton Hill residents who have access to Save-A-Lot and Safeway, the special charm may be Tony’s faithful horses, a pair of strawberry roans named Michelle and Tony (no relation), both a little older than 20. Both horses are trained and bred to be friendly, although Michelle is his favorite. People walking dogs or driving through the neighborhood pull over to pet or pose in a picture. Tony owns both horses and rents the stable space from the Arabber Historical Preservation Society, a non-profit organization that supports street vendors.
Since Tony’s route and schedule can shift based on the pressures of stock, weather, and customer demand, it can be hard to predict what time or even what days he will be arriving in Bolton Hill. Tony said anyone can reach him by calling or messaging his cell phone, 443-508-1049, and that he’s happy to take requests. You also might find him after 5 pm at Mt. Royal Tavern — although Michelle probably won’t be there.
—Marc Huete lives on Lafayette Ave. and works for the U.S. Department of Labor.
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